What Is Centella Asiatica? The Cica Ingredient in Korean Skincare

Centella asiatica is a small marsh plant. Korean brands use its leaf extract more than any other calming ingredient. Have you seen a cica cream, a tiger grass balm or a madecassoside serum? They all come from the same plant.

This guide covers what is in the extract. It covers what the extract does well. It also covers where the marketing goes too far.

Four names, one plant

The names cause most of the confusion. Let us clear that up first.

• Centella asiatica is the plant name. This is what you see on an ingredient list.
• Cica is short for centella. It is a marketing word. No rule says how much centella a cica cream must hold. It could be a lot. It could be a trace.
• Tiger grass is a common name. The story goes that tigers rolled in the plant to soothe their wounds. It is folklore, not evidence.
• Gotu kola is the same plant again. You see this name more in herbal medicine than in skincare.

Want to know how much centella is really in a product? Ignore the front of the pack. Look at where centella sits on the ingredient list.

What is actually in the extract

Centella extract is not one thing. Four molecules do most of the work. Korean brands now name them on the pack. A named compound tells you more than a vague extract.

Compound	What it is	Why brands use it
Madecassoside	A saponin. The most researched of the four	Linked to soothing the look of redness
Asiaticoside	A saponin, closely related	Used for the look of firmness and comfort
Madecassic acid	The acid form of madecassoside	Supports a calm barrier
Asiatic acid	The acid form of asiaticoside	Used in barrier support formulas

Together the four are sometimes called TECA. That stands for titrated extract of Centella asiatica. It just means every batch holds a known amount of the four.

So here is the useful bit. A product that names madecassoside tells you more than one that only says cica.

Why Korean skincare uses so much of it

There are two reasons. One is cultural. One is about how formulas are built.

Korea has a lot of skin clinics. Going to one is normal. After any treatment, the routine is the same. Calm the skin. Support the barrier. Centella has done that job for decades. It moved from clinic aftercare into everyday skincare from there.

The second reason is simpler. Centella is easy on skin. It gets along with almost every other active. It has no adjustment period, unlike retinoids and acids. So it is the obvious partner for something stronger. Many Korean retinol and acid products carry centella for this reason. One is the SKIN1004 Retinol 0.2 Boosting Shot.

What centella is good at

For a cosmetic product, three things:

1. It calms the look of redness. This is the effect people notice first. It often shows up within a few uses.
2. It supports a calm barrier. Centella works well with ceramides and panthenol. That is why so many Korean barrier creams carry all three.
3. It makes stronger actives easier to live with. Layer centella with a retinol, a retinal or an acid. It is a good way to keep using an active you find harsh.

What it is not

There is a lot of research on centella in wound care and scars. It is interesting. It is also not what you are buying. Those studies use other amounts and other forms. They get it into skin in other ways. A cosmetic product does not match that. Skincare is sold as a cosmetic for a reason. It works on how skin looks. It does not treat a condition.

So centella will not treat rosacea, eczema or acne. Do you have a diagnosed skin condition? Then a centella cream sits alongside what your GP or dermatologist gave you. It does not replace it.

It is also not a strong hydrator on its own. Centella soothes. The hydration comes from other ingredients in the formula.

Where the good centella products come from

Shopping for centella asiatica skincare in Australia? Three brands are worth knowing. Each one comes at the ingredient from a different angle.

SKIN1004 built its whole range around centella grown in Madagascar. A lot of the world's supply comes from there. The Madagascar Centella Ampoule is close to a pure extract. That makes it the easiest way to find out if centella suits your skin. The rest of the SKIN1004 range is the same extract in other formats. There is a toning toner and a light cleansing oil.

Centellian24 comes from Dongkook Pharmaceutical. That Korean company has worked with madecassoside for decades. The Madeca Cream Time Reverse is the richer end of the range. Centellian24 is also one of the fastest growing Korean brands in Australian search.

Dr.G uses centella in its Red Blemish line. That line is aimed at skin that flushes easily. The Red Blemish Clear Soothing Cream is the best known one.

Shop centella skincare

How to use centella in a routine

Centella has almost no rules attached. It fits in nearly any step. Use it morning or night. It does not clash with anything.

Two placements are the most useful:

• As an ampoule or serum, right after toner. Use it when your skin is unhappy and you want to calm it. Apply plenty. Follow with a moisturiser.
• As a moisturiser, when you want the calming effect running all the time. This is the quiet, background version rather than the rescue version.

Do you use a retinal, retinol or an acid? Apply the centella product first and the active second. Or use them on different nights while your skin adjusts. Our guide to PDRN vs retinol covers the same layering question.

You can see the full range on our serum, moisturiser and toner pages.

Frequently asked questions

Is cica the same as centella?
Yes. Cica is a short marketing name for centella asiatica. There is no separate ingredient called cica. No rule sets a minimum amount either.

Is centella good for acne?
It can help skin look and feel calmer around a breakout. It also makes acne actives easier to tolerate. It is not a treatment for acne. It will not clear congestion.

Can I use centella every day?
Yes. It is one of the easiest actives in skincare. There is no adjustment period and no build-up limit.

Can I use centella with retinol or vitamin C?
Yes. This is one of the better reasons to use it. Brands often pair centella with retinoids on purpose. It makes them easier to tolerate. Apply the centella product first.

Is centella vegan?
The extract comes from a plant, so yes. Is the finished product vegan? That depends on the rest of the formula. Check the ingredient list on the product page.

What percentage of centella should I look for?
The number on the front tells you less than you would hope. A big number can still mean a weak extract. A smaller amount of a standard one can do more. A product that names madecassoside or TECA is a better sign than a big number.

Does centella help with scarring?
There is research on centella compounds in wound and scar care. It uses forms and amounts a cosmetic product does not match. A centella serum is not a scar treatment.

Not sure which centella product suits your skin? Email us at contact@dlux-essentials.com. We will help you narrow it down.