What Is Centella Asiatica? The Cica Ingredient in Korean Skincare

Centella asiatica is a small marsh plant, and Korean brands use its leaf extract more than any other ingredient that calms skin. Have you seen a cica cream, a tiger grass balm or a madecassoside serum? They all come from the same plant.

This guide covers what is in the extract, what it does well, and where the hype goes too far.

Four names, one plant

The names are what trip people up, so let us clear that up first.

• Centella asiatica is the plant name, and this is what you see on an ingredient list.
• Cica is short for centella, and it is a marketing word. No rule says how much centella a cica cream must hold. It could be a lot, or it could be a trace.
• Tiger grass is a common name. The story goes that tigers rolled in the plant to soothe their wounds, but it is an old tale, not proof.
• Gotu kola is the same plant again, and you see this name more in herbal medicine than in skincare.

Want to know how much centella is in a product? Skip the front of the pack and look at where centella sits on the ingredient list.

What is actually in the extract

Centella extract is not one thing, and four compounds do most of the work. Korean brands now name them on the pack, and a named compound tells you more than a vague extract.

Compound	What it is	Why brands use it
Madecassoside	A saponin. The most researched of the four	Linked to soothing the look of redness
Asiaticoside	A saponin, closely related	Used for the look of firmness and comfort
Madecassic acid	The acid form of madecassoside	Supports a calm barrier
Asiatic acid	The acid form of asiaticoside	Used in barrier support formulas

The four are sometimes called TECA, which stands for titrated extract of Centella asiatica. It just means every batch holds a known amount of the four.

So here is the useful bit. A product that names madecassoside tells you more than one that only says cica.

Why Korean skincare uses so much of it

There are two reasons: one is culture, and the other is how formulas are built.

Korea has a lot of skin clinics, and going to one is normal. After any treatment, the steps are the same. Calm the skin and support the barrier. Centella has done that job for decades, and it moved from the clinic into day to day skincare from there.

The second reason is simpler: centella is easy on skin, and it gets along with almost every other active. It needs no time to settle in, unlike retinoids and acids. So it is a good match for something stronger. Many Korean retinol and acid products carry centella for this reason, and one is the SKIN1004 Retinol 0.2 Boosting Shot.

What centella is good at

For a cosmetic product, three things:

1. It calms the look of redness. This is what people see first, and it often shows up in the first few uses.
2. It supports a calm barrier. Centella works well with ceramides and panthenol, which is why so many Korean barrier creams carry all three.
3. It makes stronger actives easier to live with. Layer centella with a retinol, a retinal or an acid. It is a good way to keep using an active you find harsh.

What it is not

There is a lot of research on centella in wound care and scars. It is worth a look, but it is also not what you are buying. Those studies use other amounts and other forms, and they get it into skin in other ways. A cosmetic product does not match that, and skincare is sold as a cosmetic for a reason. It works on how skin looks, and it does not treat a condition.

So centella will not treat rosacea, eczema or acne. Do you have a diagnosed skin condition? Then a centella cream sits next to what your GP or dermatologist gave you, and it does not replace it.

On its own it does not add much water. Centella soothes, and the moisture comes from other things in the formula.

Where the good centella products come from

Shopping for centella asiatica skincare in Australia? Three brands are worth knowing, and each one comes at it from its own angle.

SKIN1004 built its whole range around centella grown in Madagascar, and a lot of the world's supply comes from there. The Madagascar Centella Ampoule is close to a pure extract, and that makes it the simplest way to find out if centella suits your skin. The rest of the SKIN1004 range is the same extract in other forms. There is a toning toner and a light cleansing oil.

Centellian24 comes from Dongkook Pharmaceutical, a Korean firm that has worked with madecassoside for decades. The Madeca Cream Time Reverse is the richer end of the range. Centellian24 is also one of the fastest growing Korean brands in Australian search.

Dr.G uses centella in its Red Blemish line, which is for skin that flushes easily. The Red Blemish Clear Soothing Cream is the best known one.

Shop centella skincare

How to use centella in a routine

Centella has next to no rules. It fits in nearly any step, morning or night, and it does not clash with anything.

Two ways are the most useful:

• As an ampoule or serum, right after toner. Use it when your skin is upset and you want to calm it. Use plenty, then follow with a moisturiser.
• As a moisturiser, when you want the calming effect running all the time. This is the quiet, background one, not the rescue one.

Do you use a retinal, retinol or an acid? Use the centella product first and the active second. Or use them on other nights while your skin adjusts. Our guide to PDRN vs retinol covers the same question.

You can see the full range on our serum, moisturiser and toner pages.

Frequently asked questions

Is cica the same as centella?
Yes. Cica is a short marketing name for centella asiatica. There is no separate ingredient called cica. No rule sets a minimum amount either.

Is centella good for acne?
It can help skin look and feel calmer around a breakout. It also makes acne actives easier to tolerate. It is not a treatment for acne. It will not clear congestion.

Can I use centella every day?
Yes. It is one of the easiest actives in skincare. There is no adjustment period and no build-up limit.

Can I use centella with retinol or vitamin C?
Yes. This is one of the better reasons to use it. Brands often pair centella with retinoids on purpose. It makes them easier to tolerate. Apply the centella product first.

Is centella vegan?
The extract comes from a plant, so yes. Is the finished product vegan? That depends on the rest of the formula. Check the ingredient list on the product page.

What percentage of centella should I look for?
The number on the front tells you less than you would hope. A big number can still mean a weak extract. A smaller amount of a standard one can do more. A product that names madecassoside or TECA is a better sign than a big number.

Does centella help with scarring?
There is research on centella compounds in wound and scar care. It uses forms and amounts a cosmetic product does not match. A centella serum is not a scar treatment.

Not sure which centella product suits your skin? Email us at contact@dlux-essentials.com and we will help you narrow it down.